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    • The basics of low-warp tapestry

       

      Low-warp tapestry is a weaving made of interwoven threads of weft and warp.

      It is a particularly tight weave which is most often done inside out.

      The warp must not appear except in special cases in agreement with the artist, we call this “apparent warp” (chaîne apparente).

      The tapestry is made by using a graphic language and textile writings that are decided according to the pieces to produce and the drawing of the cartoon.

      All weaving techniques can be used such as :

      • The liures or croisages 
      • The battages 
      • The stripes
      • The dotted lines 
      • The driadis 
      • The passages de couleur or colour gradients
      • The perfilages…

      In order to obtain a tight, homogeneous fabric and a non-visible warp, the weft and the warp must be of identical size.

      The warp threads must be equalized at an equal distance from each other. Hence the importance of knowing well and knowing how to calculate and identify :

             - Calibrations.
            - Warp and weft relations.
►2. We use cotton for the warp and often wool for the weft

  • 1. The loom is divided into lames and portées

    • There are two constant features : the lame and the portée.


      The lame :

      The warp is divided into 40 cm portions called lames.

      Each lame is autonomous during the movement that alternatively pull down the even and odd threads.

      This division allows weavers to weave together. Even if a weaver weaves alone, it would be difficult to work all the threads at the same time given the high tension on the warp threads.

      This unit of measurement is used to indicate the weaving width of a tapestry or the width of the low-warp loom.

      Example :

      • A loom with 3 lames can accommodate a 120 cm warp, i.e. 3 x 40 cm.
      • A loom with 5 lames can accommodate a 200 cm warp, i.e. 5 x 40 cm etc…

      This measurement is useful :

      • For the division, necessary for the preparation of the warp (warping or ourdissage).
      • In order to know the width of a heddle bar.
      • In order to calculate the number of threads per cm.

       

      The portée :

      A portée is always equivalent to a series of 12 warp threads.

      The lame (40 cm) is made up of a number of portées (12 threads each) matching the size of the warp used.

      • The more portées per lame, the thinner the warp thread and the weft.
      • Conversely, the fewer portées there are per lame, the thicker the warp thread and the weft.

      Example - a warp :

      • in 13 portées will have 13 x 12 threads, i.e. 156 threads per cm by 40 cm.
      • in 16 portées will have 16 x 12 threads, i.e. 192 threads per cm by 40 cm.

      The number of portées on a lame therefore allows us to determine the number of threads it has, and therefore gives us the density of the warp.

      It is a way of establishing the density of the warp specific to the Creuse territory.

      With these data, it is now easy to calculate the number of threads per cm that we will have on a lame depending on the size of the warp.

      Process :

      Example for a warp of :

      • 13 portées : 13 x 12 (portées) = 156 (threads): 40 cm = 3,9 threads per cm.
      • 16 portées : 16 x 12 (portées) = 192 (threads) : 40 cm = 4,8 threads per cm.
      • 18 portées : 18 x 12 (portées)= 216 (threads) : 40 cm = 5,4 threads per cm.
      • 10 portées : 10 x 12 (portées)= 120 (threads): 40 cm = 3 threads per cm.

                                     Image
►2. We use cotton for the warp and often wool for the weft