Assembly on the Loom
Topic outline
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1-Lower the tension trolleys all the way down to ensure the beams are parallel. Fix the rateau on the loom’s jumelles very close to the rear beam (on the pawl side, inside the loom). The rateau is a wooden batten on which headless nails are driven in a staggered pattern, spaced one centimeter apart. Its use is universal regarding the thinness of the warp (see below). The toupies, camperche, treadles, plank are removed to free the inside of the loom.
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2-Mark out the location of the lames on the rear beam using small pencil marks, centering the warp width on the beam. The location of the lames on the rateau is delimited by shuttles (flûtes) which are opposite each marker marked on the beam. It is necessary to check that the space between each flûte is 40 cm. The crenilles are then placed on the rateau and arranged in these intervals, on the six-yarn cross (encroix) side on the rear beam. That is to say, by checking that this end of the crenille has a single ligature (2) and the two small knots of the start and end of warping (1).
a) Closed crenille
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3-You must first open the crenille by undoing the first link (b). Then, you must loosen the ligature which is a closed loop (above all, do not undo the little knot). Then, pass the verdillon through the first opening of the six-yarn cross (encroix), taking care to check that the two half-portées of the start and end of warping pass well around it (3 yarns above/3 yarns below).
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4-A strong yarn is attached to one end of the beam near the rear verdillon (possibly around one of the iron dowels holding it, otherwise around a small nail driven into the beam). This yarn coiled on a shuttle (flûte) is engaged in the same opening as the verdillon, then stretched and tied securely to the other end of the beam.
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5-The shuttle (flûte) passes back through the second opening of the cross (encroix) and joins its starting point at the end of the beam. When the warp has several lames, this operation is carried out for each of them in the same way, one after the other.
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6-After checking that the guide thread stretched on the beam followed the same path as the ligature, and after ensuring the tension and good fixings of these two yarns against the rear verdillon, the ligature is cut and removed.
Note : The yarn which follows the same path as the verdillon (first opening of the cross – encroix) is a sort of security in the case where we have to, for example, remove the latter to rethread a small knot which has gone incorrectly, or else a portée that has been forgotten.
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7-The portées must be regularly distributed between the teeth of the rateau, and between the dowels which hold the verdillon.
Each group of six yarns is cleared, at the base, near the verdillon and the cross (encroix), and then placed between two nails on the rateau.
This involves carefully moving the yarns along the verdillon, without pulling on each half-portée at the risk of tangling the crenille.
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8-On the rateau, we have forty intervals between each shuttle (flûte). Depending on the density of the warp, it will be enough to regularly distribute the remaining intervals. This rateau will be ideal for a warp of 20 portées since we will have 6 warp yarns per centimeter; for thinner warps, it will be necessary, from time to time, to place 12 yarns between two nails. But for warps that have less than 20 portées, it is better to stick to 6 yarns for each space occupied, even if it means skipping an interval between each group of yarns.
It is important to recount the number of portées during this distribution. If there were more, it would be possible to remove some, unless the lame is widened accordingly.
Before continuing, you must ensure that the verdillon is securely in place in its groove by possibly blocking it with small wedges ; on the other hand, check that the (or both) pawl(s) of the rear beam properly lock the latter.
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9-Now, you have to go around the loom and untie the crenille by gently pulling on it. If it does not unravel at some point, you will have to undo each link from the end on the yarn-to-yarn cross (encroix) side.
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10-To the extent that there is sufficient distance in front of the loom, it is first a matter of pulling on the end of the crenille so as to release and tighten the warp yarns. You must pull downwards (so as to not pull the yarns out of the rateau), with a sharp movement and several times, while going up towards the back of the loom. This gesture allows you to “lighten” the crenille and slightly tighten the groups of 6 yarns, rather than untangling them. It is not desirable to comb the yarns using your fingers, which would, on the contrary, risk further tangling them. This involves finding a homogeneous but low tension, equivalent to that of warping.
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11-We return near the rear beam to coil the warp on it one turn. It is rolled up loose (no need for another person to stretch it). It is important to check during this operation that the yarns do not get tangled at the level of the rateau. After that, you have to go around the loom again, then pull on the crenille from its end going backwards, and coil the warp again one turn, etc.
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12-The end of the crenille is now near the rateau. The warp is completely coiled on the rear beam.
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13-The yarns of the crenille are carefully lifted and released from the teeth of the rateau, then completely coiled on the beam. The rateau is detached from the jumelles and removed from the loom.
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14-The ligature of the yarn-to-yarn cross (encroix - 3) is loosened, a rope (the length of which is designed in order to stretch it between the jumelles) is passed through the two openings. You must carefully check as it passes that it follows the initial cross (encroix) exactly. The photo clearly shows the location of the two ligatures which corresponded to the top of the warping machine (ourdissoir).
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15-The board and the camperche of the loom are removed.
The rope is stretched between the jumelles, near the rear beam. This rope (which will form a large closed loop) must be tied temporarily, so that it can subsequently be moved and placed on the loom board.
The weaver enters the loom and cuts the ligature of the yarn-to-yarn cross (encroix) which is now replaced by the rope.
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16-The other ligature, which only served to hold the loops of the crenille, is also cut.
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17-All the yarns of the crenille are cut while maintaining this large loop horizontally, so as to obtain two layers (even and odd yarns) of the same length.
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18-The lame is divided into several groups of yarns temporarily knotted (tension knots, see below). When the warp has several lames, it is useful to make the same number of knots for each of them, so as to clearly locate, subsequently, the beginning and the end of them when threading. If, during this operation, an error is noticed in the cross (encroix) of the rope, it must then be corrected before continuing. An isolated doublot would not be a problem, several doublots close to each other can compensate for each other by re-threading the yarns one by one. But you must not remove any yarns.
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1-A strong yarn is passed through each series of heddles. These will be suspended near the rope by stretching the yarn which supports them between the jumelles of the loom.
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2-3-Then we begun threading. This operation, which requires special attention, is generally carried out by two people.
One stands behind the loom and presents each yarn one by one to the other which is inside the loom and which alternately threads the even and odd heddles.
The person threading must turn the small bundles of selected heddles over the index and middle fingers of the right hand, so as to clearly see the “root” of the heddles near the small colored yarn, to be sure to follow the initial order. The thumb and index finger of the left hand pass through each heddle to grasp the yarn presented. As threading progresses, the groups of yarns will be retied after checking. For a warp of several lames, you must be careful not to thread the yarns of the second lame into the heddle bars of the first. To do this, after the last knot of the first lame, simply take up the heddle bars of the second lame, until the end of the last knot, etc. The additional heddles would therefore not be used. Of course, threading can be done by one person.
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4-The yarns which supported the heddles are removed, the rope is detached from the jumelles then the ratchet of the rear beam is removed. The heddle bars as well as the rope are brought forward and placed on the loom board. Then the rear beam is blocked again by its ratchet.
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1-The knots which will allow the warp to be stretched generally correspond to half-portées, that is to say groups of six warp yarns.
It is possible to tie with twelve yarns for thin warps, possibly only with four for large ones.
It is best to do this operation in two stages.
First of all, selection of groups of six yarns, then precise adjustment of the knots according to the groove of the front beam (fig 2 to 9).
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2-The six yarns are combed and moderately tensioned.
The right hand pinches these yarns between the thumb and index finger, against the upper edge of the groove of the front beam.
Important: do not forget to adjust the length of all the knots based on the shortest (there may be significant differences in length between the yarns if the warp has been a little tangled or poorly cut). This involves allowing approximately two centimeters of “offcut” (chute) in relation to the edge of the groove so as not to lose too much warp yarn.
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3-4-The left hand makes a loop with three fingers while the right keeps the measurement taken at the start.
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5-The middle finger of the left hand pulls the yarns through the loop.
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6-The thumb and index finger of the left hand close the knot, while the marker held by the right hand fits against it.
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7-The knots will be moderately tight.
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8-For the beginner, it will be appropriate to compare the knots with each other as the operation progresses.
Each knot is first compared with the previous one.
This comparison is made at the level of the knot itself and not at the level of the ends of the loops.
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9-Then, a second comparison of the lengths is made, in this case between the first and the third knots. And this on an axis well perpendicular to the beams of the loom.
But when the weaver gets the hang of it, it is preferable to adjust the knots immediately, without stopping to check their length, so as not to compromise the regularity of the movement.
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10-Once the knot operation is complete, the heddle bars are moved aside on the board, each knot is lifted and the verdillon is introduced into the opening thus made by the front heddles (3 yarns above, 3 yarns below).
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11-Above all, you should not pass the verdillon through the loops of the knots as the layman might do, which would have the effect of undoing them. It is necessary to check that no knot has been forgotten.
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12-You must now uncoil the warp a little, then regularly distribute the half-portées on the verdillon, depending on the location of the lames (which will be marked on the front beam). Then the verdillon is engaged in its groove. Pay attention to the distribution of the knots between the dowels which hold the verdillon, check that the yarns are not stuck at the risk of being cut by the iron dowels.
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1-The rope is raised against the rear beam and the heddle bars near it. Then the warp is stretched to the extent that the groups of yarns are perpendicular to the beams, and the knots well inserted into the groove of the front beam. The verdillon must not above all be at the point of tangency of the warp and the beam, but bent (at least 1/8th of a turn) on the front of the loom.
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2-The board is moved away from the front beam, and the heddle bars are slipped into this space. With a cotton yarn of the same size or a little thicker than the warp used, four passées will be stretched between two nails driven into the beam, a few centimeters from the verdillon. The left hand, passed between the bench and the beam, alternately pulls on the heddle bars while the right hand passes the shuttle (flûte) through the opening thus created.
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3-The four passées will be well stretched between the two nails, and tightened against each other using the comb.
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4-The heddles are pushed back towards the rope, the board is advanced against the beam and the yarns are equalized one by one or two by two using the awl. The equalization on each lame must slightly exceed 40 centimeters and can reach 41 cm.
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5-Using the awl, the warp is equalized on the rope near the rear beam. It is important to check as the equalization progresses the width of the warp on one hand, and its location on the beam on the other hand, that is to say the spaces between the selvedges and the ends of the beams.
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6-Then the warp will be loosen and coiled about one turn on the front beam of the loom. The photo clearly shows the still “untreated” part in the foreground, while the warp is well equalized between the rope and the front beam (A). Then the rope is raised, the heddles also, the warp is stretched again, and the equalizing begins anew, etc.
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7-When the entire warp is equalized and coiled on the front beam, the rope must be replaced with a cotton yarn rather larger than the warp used (or the same yarn doubled). Simply attach this yarn to the ends of the rope and gently pull on it, with the warp lightly tensioned.
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8-Against the verdillon of the rear beam, we find the 6-yarns cross (encroix). Above it (approximately 10 cm), we will tighten the passées which replace the rope, then very carefully equalize on it. And this always depends on the location of the lames marked on the beam.
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9-This equalization is very important, it must be carried out with the greatest care, because it is the basis for rewinding the warp. The passées which replace the rope, and which play the role of comb, must remain in this place.
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10-Now, we are going to re-coiled these on the rear beam, stretching as much as possible with each turn of the beam. This operation consists of cailler the warp, that is to say ensuring a strong and homogeneous tension of the layer of yarns on the beam, so that the thicknesses of the turns fit into each other. This operation is done by only pushing back the heddle bars as you go, but without pushing back the yarn-to-yarn cross (encroix) which must remain near the verdillon of the rear beam.
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11-The completely coiled and caillée warp is now in the weaving position. The tension trolleys are lifted to the maximum (lowering the yarns being easier with a large space between the beams). The front verdillon should not be on the top of the beam, the warp will therefore be coiled a few centimeters to prevent the verdillon from getting out of its groove and also to facilitate the final equalization on the four passées.
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1-2-
a) Heddles
b) Heddle bars
c) Barlettes
d) Bâtons de toupie
e) Toupie or sautereau
f) Coulisseau and camperche
g) TreadlesThe toupie (e) is fitted into the coulisseau (f) of the camperche. The batons de toupie (d) are connected to the heddle bars (b) by the barlettes (c).
The barlettes are large loops of warp yarn in three or four layers closed with a knot and with a length of approximately 40 cm. Two barlettes are attached to each heddle bar and are attached to a bâton de toupie by surrounding it two or three times.
The toupie must remain placed on the coulisseau to play its role as a balance. That is to say to ensure the horizontality of one layer of yarns when the other is lowered.
The barlettes must be sufficiently tight so that there is no downtime while pedaling.
The toupie will be connected to the treadles by chains vertically aligned with the ends of the flail, and this by s-shaped hooks on the toupie side and by open pitons on the treadles side.
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3-4-Two passées are added against the rear beam (by pulling the heddles by hand if you are alone). This cross (encroix - 1) will be pushed back as the fabric is coiled onto the front beam. It is therefore not necessary to fix it. A final equalization is carried out on this cross (encroix) and the warp is ready for weaving. The perpendicularity of the warp in relation to the beams will be checked before carrying out the warp’s passées (see below).
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The warp being very tight, we will weave on the width corresponding to that of the cartoon to be reproduced, plus a few yarns. The two selvedge yarns will not be caught in the weaving and will serve as guides especially for beginners. A strip of approximately one and a half centimeters will be woven with a yarn of the same thickness or slightly thinner than the warp used (12/12 on a 12/18 warp).
Weaving begins and ends a few centimeters back from the selvedge. The weft yarn should be loosen when pressed down with the scraper, so as to completely cover the warp. The passées are packed down tightly with the comb. The cartoon will then be pinned or sewn onto this strip. Then we can finally start weaving wool or other materials. Good luck to you !
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