The Warping (Ourdissage)
Topic outline
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Warping (ourdissage) is the operation which consists of preparing the warp threads before assembly on the loom. This preparation is done according to the number of lames and the length of the tapestry to be installed on the loom.
Each lame of warp, or portion of 40 cm of threads, is warped individually. These groups of threads corresponding to the lames are called crenilles.
The length of the crenilles corresponds to that of the tapestry to be made by adding the loss of warp called saut, that is to say approximately 1,20 m (possibly a little more if it is a bar loom – métier à barre – or capstan).
The number of threads contained in each crenille varies depending on the density of the warp, that is to say the number of portées per lame.
The warping (ourdissage) is done from five wooden dowels allowing, on one hand, to establish the length of the crenille, and on the other hand, to make crosses (encroix or enverjures or croisures), markers of threads in preparation for the arrangement on the loom. *
*The cross (encroix) is the crossing of two layers of even and odd threads, between two wooden dowels i.e. sometimes a thread above then a thread below, sometimes six threads above then six threads below each dowel.
The arrangement of these five dowels is done according to two kinds of crosses (encroix) A and B as follows :
A – on one hand two dowels 1 and 2.
B – on the other hand three dowels 3, 4 and 5.
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1-Location of the six-threads cross (encroix) between dowels no. 1 and no. 2. A cord serving as a ligature, approximately 80cm long, is passed through the two openings (this is doubled in the photographs).
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2-The ends of this cord held by one hand are passed through the loop provided by the other hand so as to tighten the layer of threads.
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3-The cord is passed around the layer of threads using one hand, then inserted into the loop provided by the other hand. This makes it possible to take the three threads from the half-portée from the start of warping that remained apart.
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4-Very important.
Tie a small knot on the cord to close the ligature (otherwise the order of the threads risks being lost when put on the loom). -
5-The same operation is carried out for the thread-to-thread cross (encroix) between dowels 3 and 4. Near dowel no. 5, a small, looser ligature keeps the warp threads grouped at the end of the crenille.
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6-The crenille is removed from the warping machine (ourdissoir) from the top (thread-to-thread cross side, corresponding to the front of the loom, bench side). It is knotted on itself in the form of a small chain so that it can be undone, when put on the loom, by the six-thread cross (encroix) corresponding to the bottom of the warping machine (ourdissoir) and to the rear of the loom (tension carriage side).
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7-8-Each lame of warp or crenille is thus braided in such a way as to avoid tangling of the threads during transport or possible storage. If the warp is not very long, and if the loom is close to the warping machine (ourdissoir), it is not essential to carry out this operation.
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11- In order to close this crenille, its end (bottom of the warping machine and six-thread cross side) is introduced into the last loop created by the right hand.
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12- Analysis of the completed crenille.
A - The bottom of the warping machine (ourdissoir) corresponds to the rear beam of the loom (tension carriage side).
1. The two small knots corresponding to the start and end of warping.
When assembling: all the loops, including the two small knots, pass around the rear verdillon.
2. Ligature corresponding to the six-thread cross (encroix).
During assembly: thread stretched over the beam near the rear verdillon.
B - The top of the warping machine (ourdissoir) corresponds to the front beam of the loom (bench side).
3. Ligature corresponding to the thread-to-thread cross (encroix).
During assembly: location of the rope.
4. End of the crenille.
During assembly : the loops are cut before threading.
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