The Warping (Ourdissage)
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Warping (ourdissage) is the operation which consists of preparing the warp threads before assembly on the loom. This preparation is done according to the number of lames and the length of the tapestry to be installed on the loom.
Each lame of warp, or portion of 40 cm of threads, is warped individually. These groups of threads corresponding to the lames are called crenilles.
The length of the crenilles corresponds to that of the tapestry to be made by adding the loss of warp called saut, that is to say approximately 1,20 m (possibly a little more if it is a bar loom – métier à barre – or capstan).
The number of threads contained in each crenille varies depending on the density of the warp, that is to say the number of portées per lame.
The warping (ourdissage) is done from five wooden dowels allowing, on one hand, to establish the length of the crenille, and on the other hand, to make crosses (encroix or enverjures or croisures), markers of threads in preparation for the arrangement on the loom. *
*The cross (encroix) is the crossing of two layers of even and odd threads, between two wooden dowels i.e. sometimes a thread above then a thread below, sometimes six threads above then six threads below each dowel.
The arrangement of these five dowels is done according to two kinds of crosses (encroix) A and B as follows :
A – on one hand two dowels 1 and 2.
B – on the other hand three dowels 3, 4 and 5.
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1-Warping begins at the bottom of the device, the six threads are knitted together “plein poing” (see below), then separated in two around dowel no. 1 (corresponding to the rear verdillon on the loom). They then pass under dowel no. 2.
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2-By turning the warping machine (ourdissoir), the six threads are raised towards dowels 3-4-5, along the guide thread.
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3-The thread-by-thread cross (encroix) is formed between the index and middle fingers of the right hand, and this in the order of the small eyelets of the cantre (the index finger being placed systematically on the first thread). The fingers work like scissors to take the threads one by one. If two threads were taken at once, we would find a doublot in the rope during assembly on the loom. Same thing if we start this operation sometimes with the index finger above, sometimes with the index finger below the first thread. In this case we would have a doublot between two half-portées. These possible errors can always be corrected later, during assembly on the loom.
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4-This cross (encroix) is brought back to the top of the warping machine (ourdissoir), while turning it slightly to tighten the warp threads.
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5-Dowel no. 3 is inserted through the opening made by the index finger. Dowel no. 4 receives the opening made by the middle finger. To avoid turning the six threads on themselves, you must hold the cross (encroix) with the palm of your right hand towards the ground, use your thumb to pass the dowels through the openings of the cross (encroix) and help yourself with your left hand to block the threads put in place, and this after each dowel.
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6-The six threads are placed over dowel no. 5 and held against the warping machine (ourdissoir) by the thumb of the left hand. And we start the cross (encroix) again thread by thread (the index finger placed on the first thread).
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7-Dowel no. 4 is placed in the opening made by the index finger, always with the help of the thumb.
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8-Dowel no.3 receives the opening made by the middle finger.
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9-After checking the thread-by-thread cross (encroix) between dowels 3 and 4, we go back down to the six-thread cross (encroix) by turning the warping machine (ourdissoir). If one or several warp threads were not arranged in a “cross” between dowels 3 and 4, or if a half-portée (6 threads) was turned on itself, the half-portée(s) of the crenille would then have to be undone to reach the error. And this by carefully rewinding the warp threads on the spool holder, as the half-portées are unraveled.
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10-Check the six-threads to six-threads cross (encroix) by recounting the number of portées from time to time, then go back up to the thread-to-thread cross (encroix) etc.
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11-12-After recounting the number of portées corresponding to the size of the warp thread used (in this case for the demonstration, 9 portées, cotton 12/18), the six threads are cut, separated in two then tied around the dowel no. 1 (flat knot).
One portée = 12 threads = one back and forth on the warping machine (ourdissoir).
If one of the six spools of warp thread were to become empty, it would then have to be replaced, taking care to tie a flat knot for the connection, near dowels 1 and 2, at the bottom of the warping machine (ourdissoir), so as to do not find this knot when weaving.
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