The Warping (Ourdissage)
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Warping (ourdissage) is the operation which consists of preparing the warp threads before assembly on the loom. This preparation is done according to the number of lames and the length of the tapestry to be installed on the loom.
Each lame of warp, or portion of 40 cm of threads, is warped individually. These groups of threads corresponding to the lames are called crenilles.
The length of the crenilles corresponds to that of the tapestry to be made by adding the loss of warp called saut, that is to say approximately 1,20 m (possibly a little more if it is a bar loom – métier à barre – or capstan).
The number of threads contained in each crenille varies depending on the density of the warp, that is to say the number of portées per lame.
The warping (ourdissage) is done from five wooden dowels allowing, on one hand, to establish the length of the crenille, and on the other hand, to make crosses (encroix or enverjures or croisures), markers of threads in preparation for the arrangement on the loom. *
*The cross (encroix) is the crossing of two layers of even and odd threads, between two wooden dowels i.e. sometimes a thread above then a thread below, sometimes six threads above then six threads below each dowel.
The arrangement of these five dowels is done according to two kinds of crosses (encroix) A and B as follows :
A – on one hand two dowels 1 and 2.
B – on the other hand three dowels 3, 4 and 5.
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There are several types of warping machine (or warper, ourdissoir), the most commonly used is the vertical warping machine. It is a kind of turnstile on which are fixed:
- at the bottom, dowels 1 and 2
- at the top, dowels 3, 4 and 5
The length between A and B is established by moving the dowels on the four sides which have holes for this purpose. This device is very easy to use because it allows you to warp long warps while remaining at the same place.
This system can be transposed onto a wall frame, which takes up less space. This involves having intermediate dowels to form zigzags between A and B.
The simplest way for those who do not have a vertical device or warping frame would be to do this operation by aligning the dowels along a wall or even on the ground, immobilizing A and B with a weight system or with an adjustable fixings if it is on the wall.
The disadvantage of this system is having to shuttle back and forth between points A and B. It is preferable in this case to warp the warp from a single thread for handling reasons, instead of six threads as we are going to do on the vertical warping machine for demonstration. So, four dowels may be enough but the work takes longer. The Gobelins manufactory weavers use a warping system of this type.
Let's return to the vertical warping machine used in Aubusson and Felletin.
To establish the length of the warp, we will attach a guide thread between A and B (this thread is attached between the second and third dowel so that it does not get caught in the ligatures that we will make later, at the risk of being removed from the warping machine between two crenilles). To check the length of the warp before starting warping, simply measure between dowels 1 and 5 while following the guide thread. We must therefore not forget to include the spaces between the dowels in this measurement.
In front of the warping machine, a few meters away, we will place a spool holder (or cantre) equipped with eyelets (fig. 2 and 3, see below). Warping will be done from six threads or half-portée, six bobbins will be placed on the spool holder, each thread being passed through an eyelet. It is also possible to warp from an entire portée, that is to say 12 threads.
Ex : For a warp of 9 portées per lame, we will therefore make 9 back and forth movements between dowels 1 and 5, for each crenille.
Warping begins and ends at the bottom of the device near dowel no. 1. A back and forth movement with the six threads between dowels 1 and 5 will correspond to the warping of a portée.
Front (bench side) Rear (tension carriages side) 
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