Μάθημα: The Warping (Ourdissage)

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Select topic Warping (ourdissage)

Warping (ourdissage)

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- Select activity Warping (ourdissage) is the operation which consis...
  
  Warping (ourdissage) is the operation which consists of preparing the warp threads before assembly on the loom. This preparation is done according to the number of lames and the length of the tapestry to be installed on the loom.
  
  Each lame of warp, or portion of 40 cm of threads, is warped individually. These groups of threads corresponding to the lames are called crenilles.
  
  The length of the crenilles corresponds to that of the tapestry to be made by adding the loss of warp called saut, that is to say approximately 1,20 m (possibly a little more if it is a bar loom – métier à barre – or capstan).
  
  The number of threads contained in each crenille varies depending on the density of the warp, that is to say the number of portées per lame.
  
  The warping (ourdissage) is done from five wooden dowels allowing, on one hand, to establish the length of the crenille, and on the other hand, to make crosses (encroix or enverjures or croisures), markers of threads in preparation for the arrangement on the loom. *
  
  *The cross (encroix) is the crossing of two layers of even and odd threads, between two wooden dowels i.e. sometimes a thread above then a thread below, sometimes six threads above then six threads below each dowel.
  
  The arrangement of these five dowels is done according to two kinds of crosses (encroix) A and B as follows :
  
  A – on one hand two dowels 1 and 2.
  B – on the other hand three dowels 3, 4 and 5.

Warping Μachines


	This system can be transposed onto a wall frame, which takes up less space. This involves having intermediate dowels to form zigzags between A and B. The simplest way for those who do not have a vertical device or warping frame would be to do this operation by aligning the dowels along a wall or even on the ground, immobilizing A and B with a weight system or with an adjustable fixings if it is on the wall.
	There are several types of warping machine (or warper, ourdissoir), the most commonly used is the vertical warping machine. It is a kind of turnstile on which are fixed: at the bottom, dowels 1 and 2 at the top, dowels 3, 4 and 5 The length between A and B is established by moving the dowels on the four sides which have holes for this purpose. This device is very easy to use because it allows you to warp long warps while remaining at the same place.

The disadvantage of this system is having to shuttle back and forth between points A and B. It is preferable in this case to warp the warp from a single thread for handling reasons, instead of six threads as we are going to do on the vertical warping machine for demonstration. So, four dowels may be enough but the work takes longer. The Gobelins manufactory weavers use a warping system of this type.

Let's return to the vertical warping machine used in Aubusson and Felletin.

To establish the length of the warp, we will attach a guide thread between A and B (this thread is attached between the second and third dowel so that it does not get caught in the ligatures that we will make later, at the risk of being removed from the warping machine between two crenilles). To check the length of the warp before starting warping, simply measure between dowels 1 and 5 while following the guide thread. We must therefore not forget to include the spaces between the dowels in this measurement.

In front of the warping machine, a few meters away, we will place a spool holder (or cantre) equipped with eyelets (fig. 2 and 3, see below). Warping will be done from six threads or half-portée, six bobbins will be placed on the spool holder, each thread being passed through an eyelet. It is also possible to warp from an entire portée, that is to say 12 threads.

Ex : For a warp of 9 portées per lame, we will therefore make 9 back and forth movements between dowels 1 and 5, for each crenille.

Warping begins and ends at the bottom of the device near dowel no. 1. A back and forth movement with the six threads between dowels 1 and 5 will correspond to the warping of a portée.


Front (bench side)	Rear (tension carriages side)

Select topic Crosses (encroix) A and B

Crosses (encroix) A and B
- Select activity Before starting to warp, it is important to clarif...
  
  Before starting to warp, it is important to clarify the difference between the two crosses (encroix) A and B and the location of these and the ends of the crenille on the loom.
  
  Let's start from dowel no. 1 at the bottom of the warping machine and go up to dowel no. 5.
  
  A - A first cross (encroix) is made between dowels 1 and 2.
  
  It is a cross (encroix) with six threads, that is to say sometimes six threads above, sometimes six threads below each dowel. This end A of the crenille (bottom of the warping machine) corresponds when put on the loom to the rear beam (tension carriage side), and dowel no. 1 corresponds to the rear verdillon.
  
  This first cross (encroix) will allow a first installation on the rear beam of the loom in groups of six threads or half-portée.
  
  B - The second cross (encroix), more complex to make but much more precise, will be carried out between dowels 3 and 4 by means of a manual operation between the index and middle fingers of the right hand.
  
  It is a thread-by-thread cross (encroix), that is to say sometimes a thread above, sometimes a thread below each dowel.
  
  This end B of the crenille corresponds to the front of the loom (bench side). It will be cut at the level of dowel no. 5 during assembly on the loom, so as to pass the heddles, and openings 3 and 4 of the thread-to-thread cross (encroix) will be passed through an equalizing rope.

Warping Steps

1-Warping begins at the bottom of the device, the six threads are knitted together “plein poing” (see below), then separated in two around dowel no. 1 (corresponding to the rear verdillon on the loom). They then pass under dowel no. 2.

Select activity 2-By turning the warping machine (ourdissoir), the...

2-By turning the warping machine (ourdissoir), the six threads are raised towards dowels 3-4-5, along the guide thread.

3-The thread-by-thread cross (encroix) is formed between the index and middle fingers of the right hand, and this in the order of the small eyelets of the cantre (the index finger being placed systematically on the first thread). The fingers work like scissors to take the threads one by one. If two threads were taken at once, we would find a doublot in the rope during assembly on the loom. Same thing if we start this operation sometimes with the index finger above, sometimes with the index finger below the first thread. In this case we would have a doublot between two half-portées. These possible errors can always be corrected later, during assembly on the loom.

Select activity 4-This cross (encroix) is brought back to the top ...

4-This cross (encroix) is brought back to the top of the warping machine (ourdissoir), while turning it slightly to tighten the warp threads.

5-Dowel no. 3 is inserted through the opening made by the index finger. Dowel no. 4 receives the opening made by the middle finger. To avoid turning the six threads on themselves, you must hold the cross (encroix) with the palm of your right hand towards the ground, use your thumb to pass the dowels through the openings of the cross (encroix) and help yourself with your left hand to block the threads put in place, and this after each dowel.

6-The six threads are placed over dowel no. 5 and held against the warping machine (ourdissoir) by the thumb of the left hand. And we start the cross (encroix) again thread by thread (the index finger placed on the first thread).

Select activity 7-Dowel no. 4 is placed in the opening made by the...

7-Dowel no. 4 is placed in the opening made by the index finger, always with the help of the thumb.
Select activity 8-Dowel no.3 receives the opening made by the midd...

8-Dowel no.3 receives the opening made by the middle finger.

9-After checking the thread-by-thread cross (encroix) between dowels 3 and 4, we go back down to the six-thread cross (encroix) by turning the warping machine (ourdissoir). If one or several warp threads were not arranged in a “cross” between dowels 3 and 4, or if a half-portée (6 threads) was turned on itself, the half-portée(s) of the crenille would then have to be undone to reach the error. And this by carefully rewinding the warp threads on the spool holder, as the half-portées are unraveled.

Select activity 10-Check the six-threads to six-threads cross (enc...

10-Check the six-threads to six-threads cross (encroix) by recounting the number of portées from time to time, then go back up to the thread-to-thread cross (encroix) etc.

11-12-After recounting the number of portées corresponding to the size of the warp thread used (in this case for the demonstration, 9 portées, cotton 12/18), the six threads are cut, separated in two then tied around the dowel no. 1 (flat knot).

One portée = 12 threads = one back and forth on the warping machine (ourdissoir).

If one of the six spools of warp thread were to become empty, it would then have to be replaced, taking care to tie a flat knot for the connection, near dowels 1 and 2, at the bottom of the warping machine (ourdissoir), so as to do not find this knot when weaving.

Select activity Text and media area

Identification of Crosses (encroix)

1-Location of the six-threads cross (encroix) between dowels no. 1 and no. 2. A cord serving as a ligature, approximately 80cm long, is passed through the two openings (this is doubled in the photographs).

Select activity 2-The ends of this cord held by one hand are passe...

2-The ends of this cord held by one hand are passed through the loop provided by the other hand so as to tighten the layer of threads.

3-The cord is passed around the layer of threads using one hand, then inserted into the loop provided by the other hand. This makes it possible to take the three threads from the half-portée from the start of warping that remained apart.

Select activity 4-Very important.Tie a small knot on the cord to c...

4-Very important.
Tie a small knot on the cord to close the ligature (otherwise the order of the threads risks being lost when put on the loom).

5-The same operation is carried out for the thread-to-thread cross (encroix) between dowels 3 and 4. Near dowel no. 5, a small, looser ligature keeps the warp threads grouped at the end of the crenille.

6-The crenille is removed from the warping machine (ourdissoir) from the top (thread-to-thread cross side, corresponding to the front of the loom, bench side). It is knotted on itself in the form of a small chain so that it can be undone, when put on the loom, by the six-thread cross (encroix) corresponding to the bottom of the warping machine (ourdissoir) and to the rear of the loom (tension carriage side).

7-8-Each lame of warp or crenille is thus braided in such a way as to avoid tangling of the threads during transport or possible storage. If the warp is not very long, and if the loom is close to the warping machine (ourdissoir), it is not essential to carry out this operation.

Select activity 9

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Select activity 10

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Select activity 11- In order to close this crenille, its end (bott...

11- In order to close this crenille, its end (bottom of the warping machine and six-thread cross side) is introduced into the last loop created by the right hand.