Method of interweaving the warp and weft threads or
arrangement of threading. The weave of the tapestry is the canvas.
Small cords used to connect the heddle bars to the bâtons
de toupie.
On the old loom, lever made integral with the rear beam by a metal part,
the handle (la manche), and lifted by a rope connected to a manual winch
(capstan principle).
Weaving
technique where the plane of the warp is horizontal (horizontal loom).
40 cm small wooden ruler equipped with a piton in the
center and serving as a relay between the toupie and the heddles.
Common
term used to designate each strand of a weft threads assembly.
Final phase of assembling the warp which consists of
tightening it very strongly as it is coiled, so that the thicknesses of threads
on the beam fit into each other.
Piece of wood placed under the warp (approximately 40
cm), and fixed by étriers to the loom's jumelles, this
hollowed-out piece of wood supports the toupies.
See porte-bobines
(spool holder).
Set
of threads (generally cotton) stretched between the two beams of the loom.
1/Small iron clamps placed in the grooves of the beams
and used to hold the verdillon in place.
2/ Wooden trunnions used for warping.
Small metal part acting on the ratchet wheels and
preventing the beams from rotating towards the inside of the loom.
- Cadre au sol (ground frame)
Wooden frame serving as a floor for the loom, thus
avoiding having to fix it to the ground. This frame possibly includes a
diagonal cross ensuring perfect squareness.
Round iron bars, flattened and pierced at their ends,
allowing the jumelles to be fixed to the ground, or to the frame serving
as a floor.
See jumelles
Hollowed-out
part of the camperche in which the toupies are fitted.
Small chains corresponding to the lames of the
warp, braided after warping for transport or storage.
Back
and forth of the weft. One duite = two passes.
Error on a cross (encroix) or in the threading
of the heddles: two warp threads which follow one another are threaded on the
same heddle bar. You have to remove one to find the logical order.
- Ensouples or rouleaux (beams)
Wooden
or metal cylinders fitted into the jumelles.
- Encroix or enverjure or
croisure (high-warp) - cross.
Crossing of two layers of warp threads causing two
openings, and allowing the spotting of the threads at the time of warping.
Sort
of small shuttles used to pass the weft through the warp.
Iron
circles reinforcing the ends of the beams when they are in solid wood.
Tool used for weaving : small piece of metal with five
or six teeth spaced approximately one centimeter apart. The scraper is used to
press the weft between the warp threads.
Wooden
frame supporting the beams and including the tension carriages.
Process
allowing a division of the weave and involving weaving in the passe.
40 cm portion of
warp threads.
Small loops of cotton thread passed through each warp
thread and grouped on the heddle bars.
Small cotton cords passed through the openings of a cross – encroix
(in a loop) and closed with a knot.
- Manche (feminine word) – handle
In old bar looms, iron accessory allowing the tentoir
to be fixed to the beam, using an iron dowel.
Pedals
of the loom.
Twisted
skein for storage.
Cotton thread used for the warp, obtained by a
spinning process consisting of bringing together several already twisted threads
by giving them an opposite twist.
Preparation
of the warp before assembly on the loom.
- Ourdissoir (warper/warping
machine)
Device used to make crenilles. A sort of cage
on a vertical axis or a wall frame comprising at least five dowels to establish
the crosses (encroix).
Portion
of warp straddling two lames, obtained by moving the toupie.
A
course from left to right or right to left of the weft between the warp
threads.
Tool
for weaving. Usually made of boxwood, used to firmly press down the weft.
Coil the fabric or the warp onto the beam. A pliée
corresponds to a weaving height of 20 to 25 cm.
Tool
used to even warp threads up.
- Porte-bobines or cantre (spool
holder)
For warping, a sort of mobile grid supporting the
reserve bobbins and comprising an alignment of 6 or 12 pitons through which the
warp threads pass.
Row
of 12 warp threads. Unit of measurement indicating the size of the stitch.
Wooden batten planted with staggered nails spaced one
centimeter apart, and used to regularly distribute the portées on the
rear beam when assembling the warp.
Wheel
of a pulley with a groove.
Warp
length (approximately 1.20m) extending the actual weaving length.
See toupie
See barre
(bar).
Arrangement of warp and weft threads. The thinness of
the texture is given by the number of portées which imply a given weft
thickness. The texture of the tapestry is a rep, that is, plain weave and
covered warp.
Split piece of wood comprising a metal flail to
balance the lowering of the warp threads, and a tenon to slide in the camperche.
Threads coiled on the shuttle (flûte) and
passed between the warp threads to completely cover them. The tapestry is a
rep, that is to say a fabric with a covered warp.
See rateau.
Iron
rod used to fix the beginning and end of the warp in the grooves of the beams.
This glossary contains specialized weaving terms, specifically for tapestry making, with many of the terms originating from French. It covers the tools, techniques, and materials used in weaving, providing detailed descriptions of each stage of the process, from preparing the warp to the completion of the tapestry.